RETINOLS IN SKINCARE: THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE PHYTO REPLACEMENTS
In the ever-evolving world of skincare, the search for youthful, radiant skin often leads to the exploration of various active ingredients. Vitamin A derivatives, such as retinol and tretinoin, have long been celebrated for their remarkable ability to renew skin layers and combat acne and signs of aging. However, these powerful compounds come with their own set of drawbacks, including skin sensitivity and potential health risks. Enter phytoretinols—plant-based alternatives that promise similar, if not superior, benefits without the associated downsides. This blog will explain their advantages over traditional retinoids and highlight why they are becoming the future of skincare.
BACKGROUND ON VITAMIN A & ALTERNATIVES
Vitamin A and its derivatives, such as retinol and tretinoin, are known for their skincare benefits. Retinol, a form of Vitamin A, is a common ingredient in many over-the-counter skincare products and comes in a variety of forms, including lotions, creams, serums, gels, and ointments. It works by promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen production, which helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce acne, improve skin texture, and even out skin tone. Tretinoin, a prescription-strength retinoid, offers even more potent anti-aging benefits but often comes with increased side effects.
WebMD states that other catergorical forms of retinoids include: Retinal, Retinoic acid, and Retinyl ester.
These ingredients work by penetrating the skin and converting it to retinoic acid, which actively engages with skin cells to enhance their renewal and repair processes.
*WARNING* VIT A ISN’T FOR EVERYONE
Despite their effectiveness, traditional retinoids come with several drawbacks. These include potential risks for pregnant women, skin sensitivity, and photosensitivity.
Cleveland Clinic states that “there are reports of babies born with congenital conditions after topical retinoid use by their birth parent,” which is highly concerning for expecting mothers. The potential risks to fetal development means that retinoids are not advised for use by pregnant women.
Yes, Retinol is even on California's Proposition 65 (Prop 65) list of chemicals that can cause birth defects and reproductive harm in high doses. Vitamin A is needed and ingested in many natural forms but is a problem at high doses. If you want to read more about Proposition 65 take a look HERE. Really there is a need to know how much and what you are putting on topically or ingesting to ensure you are making safe choices for yourself.
In general, retinol can also cause redness, irritation, and peeling, especially when first introduced to the skincare routine. Since retinol is a “accelerating basal layer exfoliant” that aims to speed up new skin cells (aka proliferation) it’s main activity is perpetually creating new skin layers. This is what cause’s flaking and peeling appearance. Harvard Health Publishing relays that “doctors often recommend using them only every other day at first and then gradually working up to nightly applications.” The New York Times also says that “Generally, dermatologists advise starting with a mild formulation to reduce the risk of redness and irritation.” The period of skin adjustment to retinol, also known as the retinization period, can take 5–12 weeks. Factors such as skin type, sensitivity, and existing skincare routines can all influence the skin’s response to retinol, making it difficult to anticipate whether the skin will adapt smoothly or experience irritation.
Moreover, retinoids increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight, can allow skin to burn easily, and require strict sun protection measures. “Using high doses of retinol may also be associated with the development of skin cancer. Be sure to wear sunscreen and avoid direct sunlight (with clothing and hats) while you use retinol products,” says Cleveland Clinic when discussing the downsides of retinol.
This has led to the development of alternatives, several being our plant-based retinol alternatives. They show promise to work on similar skin pathways that then have similar benefits without these associated downsides. A win-win for skin and no drawbacks.
PLANT POWERED SCIENCE
Phytoretinols, derived from plants, are emerging as potent alternatives to traditional retinoids. These natural compounds provide similar benefits to conventional retinoids without the significant drawbacks.
Unlike retinol, which makes the skin more sensitive to sunlight, phytoretinols can be used during the day without increasing photosensitivity. This makes them more versatile and convenient for everyday use, allowing users to enjoy their benefits without worrying about sun exposure. The ability to use these products in the daytime enhances their practicality.
During the retinization period, it's normal to experience some skin irritation, such as redness, dryness, flaking, or peeling. It is suggested to use periodically and slowly introduce it’s frequency into your skin routine to allow the skin to normalize (which can take up to 3 weeks!). Our gentle NOVA has an extra special high level of Phytoceramides to combat this effect making it a fan favorite even to sensitive skin users. You will not see the normal peeling and dryness often associated with traditional retinoids, so you can renew your skin without the worry of molting.
Traditional retinoids are not recommended for pregnant women due to the risk of birth defects. In contrast, phytoretinols are safe for use by expecting and nursing mothers, providing a worry-free skincare option.
Retinol tends to oxidize quickly, even within the bottle! Rendering it less active for the skin or even causing more harm than good when placed when used. Our chosen plant alternatives, show greater stability as pure raw materials and then even great longevity in our jelly serum formulations, ensuring their effectiveness over a longer period and reducing the need for special storage conditions. Our 24 month PAO was achieved at normal elevated temperature and humidity testing done by third party labs (40oC and 50oC). This stability translates to better product performance, longer shelf life, and more active formula for you.
The period of skin adjustment to retinol, also known as the retinization period, can take 5–12 weeks, but it can vary depending on your skin type. During this time, it's normal to experience some skin irritation, such as redness, dryness, flaking, or peeling. It is suggested to use periodically and slowly introduce it’s frequency into your skin routine to allow the skin to normalize (can take up to 3 weeks!). Our gentle formulation has an extra special high level of Phytoceramides to combat this effect making it a fan favorite even to sensitive skin users. You will not see the normal uncomfortable side effects often associated with traditional retinoids. This gentleness is particularly beneficial for those with sensitive skin and without the peeling the added bonus is no one wondering why ypou are molting.
Phytoretinols provide a multitude of benefits without the drawbacks associated with traditional retinoids. They enhance collagen production, improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and help with hyperpigmentation. These benefits make phytoretinols an attractive option for anyone looking to achieve healthier, more youthful skin…and who doesn’t want that?!
TWO TIMES THE FUN, DOUBLED THE PHYTORETINOLS
Our NOVA Jelly Serum Bar is a combination of two powerful phytoretinols to tackle deep wrinkles, dark spots, and prevent blemishes. The two main plant ingredients in NOVA are Bakuchiol and Bidens Pilosa Extract.
Bakuchiol is derived from the seeds of the babchi plant and is uniquely extracted for nearly 100% purity (free of furanocoumarin impurities) while being photochemically stable for day use. It’s considered a natural alternative to a retinoid because it activates similar channels and pathways to promote renewal, rejuvenation, and boosting of collagen for plumping while reducing overall skin oiliness and spots.
Bidens Pilosa Extract is a super critical extract standardized for phytol, a diterperne present as part of the chlorophyll pigment, that metabolizes into phytanic acid to then bind to similar retinoid pathways as well as stimulation of transcriptional activities. It is also photo chemical for daytime use and tested to show increased collagen, antioxidant activity, reduction of skin oiliness, dark spot reduction, reduction of deep wrinkles, dedensification of the skin, reduces roughness, and increases elasticity.
For a more in-depth look at the ingredients we incorporate into NOVA, click HERE.
PHYTORETINOLS BEAT THE OLD VITAMIN A
As the skincare industry continues to innovate, phytoretinols stand out as a promising alternative to traditional retinoids. With their ability to deliver similar, if not superior, results without the associated risks and side effects, phytoretinols represent a significant advancement in the skincare world. Whether you are looking for a safer option during pregnancy, a more stable ingredient, or a solution for sensitive skin, phytoretinols are the way to go!
Great additional reads
“Retinol Has Many Skin Benefits. Here’s How to Use It.”
https://www.nytimes.com/2023/08/31/well/retinol-skin-benefits.html
“Cosmetic Labeling Claims”
https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/cosmetics-labeling-claims
“Retinol” - Cleveland Clinic
https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/treatments/23293-retinol
“Do Retinoids Really Reduce Wrinkles?”
https://www.health.harvard.edu/staying-healthy/do-retinoids-really-reduce-wrinkles
“Vitamin A - Uses, Side Effects, and More”
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-964/vitamin-a
Collab: Sophia Gutierrez